Michael Wilkins
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A surfer carving in the pocket of a breaking wave on the Gold Coast, spray fanning off the board.

In the Pocket

Gold Coast, Australia · April 2019

1D X Mark II, 400 millimetres, f 5.6, 1/1000 of a second, ISO 100

Long lens, early light, and a wave doing exactly what he wanted it to.

Gold Coast surf, shot long from the sand. The pocket is the whole game — that shifting spot where the wave is steepest and the surfer has about half a second to be exactly there. Frozen at speed the water goes architectural, all fins and spray. First frame in the action-sports gallery; plenty more where it came from.