Standing in the middle of the Via dei Fori Imperiali at dusk with nothing coming — which happens for about twenty minutes a day and never when you plan for it. The road runs dead straight at the Colosseum, and the umbrella pines down both sides do the framing for you. Mussolini drove this avenue through the middle of the Imperial forums to give himself a parade route; it makes a very good photograph and it destroyed a great deal of Rome.